Well I think it's about time i go a bit more aggressive with my 02 mustangs alignment for auto x. I haven't driven the car on the road for the last 3 months, because all my rims have r comps on them.
Right now my alignment is -2 degree camber and 4.5 caster I believe. I was told I need more cast some toe out and more camber. I agree with more camber since I'm still rolling the tires over and going positive on hard corners , but how much of each? Looking for some help and other mustang peoples alignments.
Also what about rear end alignments. I know most will say its a straight axle , you don't worry about it , but recently I've read differently about tweaking the axle with a little heat to get some negative camber. Now is it actually worth doing to get a degree or is it just a waste unless your circle trackin and then you do the negative outside positive inside.
Thanks in advance to any help or suggestions of alignments
I have no idea of a good alignment shop but I have done the rear axle alignment. You put a bead of mig weld on the top of the tube to get negative camber. of course this is without weight on the axle and do one bead at a time until you get your 1 degree. according to my research you can get up to 1 degree without killing the outer axle bearings. if you put the weld on the front side you can get some toe in. If you find someone, let us know who did it, and how it turns out. Rob Kliffel Farmington Hills, MI 9 CSP 99 Miata
Scott wrote ... Hey, how do I change my car to be more competitive with you and maybe get faster than you? What, nobody told me their settings, that's weird?, haha. Just messing with ya. I don't come into the solo forums much, but maybe people don't want to give their secrets out...
haha hey maybe that's it? I just figured someone would have chimmed in with something in a week
rjkracer1 wrote ... I have no idea of a good alignment shop but I have done the rear axle alignment. You put a bead of mig weld on the top of the tube to get negative camber. of course this is without weight on the axle and do one bead at a time until you get your 1 degree. according to my research you can get up to 1 degree without killing the outer axle bearings. if you put the weld on the front side you can get some toe in. If you find someone, let us know who did it, and how it turns out.
thanks, i've read just using a torch and heating 6" sections at a time and letting them cool fully, and repeat. Making sure you have the fluid out when you do this and just guestimate and check when your done.
The main reason I was asking about straight axles was I have a "new to me" v-6 mustang with a 8.8" swap and it seems to have negative camber and negative toe I'm trying to correct a little.
[ Edited Fri Aug 03, 2012 - 07:30PM ] #7 ESP Boss Legacy Mustang
Sorry to be late in answering. I don't read these forums all that much. You need to give a little more information, what has been to the car so far. Springs,swaybar tire size. But I can give a few tips. The Mustang has a modified strut ft suspension. This means it has little camber gain, and as the car rolls the wheels rollover. I would try 3 to 4 deg of neg camber. This is a lot for the street bad tire wear and the car will hunt under braking. For caster a heavy car should have 5 to 5.5 deg maybe 6 of positive caster, this will give extra camber as the car turns. As for toe out I don't like to run any if he car has ackerman built in, but most guys run some toe out.
What a Mustang needs is to stiffen the swaybars and springs to reduce the body roll. Or if you can replace the ft end with a short/long arm one.
Also heavy understeer is most often caused by the driver not managing the weight transfer of the car (King of late braking).
Unless the rear axle is very bent, leave it alone. The 4 link rear end had to much rubber and strange movement as it is.
750-850 progressive springs, stock sway (Putting the steeda 35 mm package on once I get my end links) bilstein hd, 295/30/18 Hoosier a6, -2.1 camber, 4.5 caster, and neutral toe.
At the belle isle event I couldn't stop my fronts from rolling over. I had the the tire pressure up to 40 and it still went half way into the h! I've never had roll problems like that. #7 ESP Boss Legacy Mustang
for autocross try 3 degrees of camber with those spring about 3/16 total toe out. The Beast has 2.5 degreees of camber but much more spring. Much more camber will really hurt the braking. Road racers get away with more camber and live with the braking degredation. Marcus Link
Ok thanks, I planned on trying to get some more camber after I saw what damage I did to the poor used Hoosiers. I guess I'll have to deal with less brakes until I get some better springs. I'll probably be enlisting your help on spring choices and getting the bilsteins valves to them in the off season if Santa is nice to me, haha.
[ Edited Mon Aug 06, 2012 - 10:31AM ] #7 ESP Boss Legacy Mustang